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Ravenbear 05-05-10 07:24 PM

Pet food
I have been looking at new food for the pups and this caught my eye would you folks who know dog food better than I take a look.. it looks good to me..

You want the best for your Dog. As the makers of Authority Dog Food, so do we. That's why Authority contains the finest ingredients, like real lamb as our #1 ingredient. We never use fillers, artificial colors, flavors or preservatives. From bright eyes and a shiny coat, to strong muscles, teeth and bones, there's a healthy difference you can see.
Available in Mini Chunk and Chunk formulas. Mini Chunk has a smaller kibble size, ideal for toy or small breed adult dogs. Chunk has a normal kibble size, ideal for medium breed adult dogs. The crunchy kibble helps reduce tarter and plaque build-up for whiter teeth and fresher breath.
  • Mini Chunk: Lamb, Lamb Meal, Brown Rice, Wheat, Wheat Germ Meal, Oat Groats, Rice Bran, Brewers Rice, Beef Tallow (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Natural Flavor, Dried Egg Product, Canola Oil, Corn Oil, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Taurine, Vitamin and Mineral Supplements (Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Vitamin E Supplement, L-Ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (source of Ascorbic Acid), Copper Sulfate, Vitamin A Supplement, Manganese Sulfate, Niacin, D Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin, Calcium Iodate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamin Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Sodium Selenite, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement).
  • Chunk: Lamb, Lamb Meal, Brown Rice, Wheat, Wheat Germ Meal, Oat Groats, Rice Bran, Brewers Rice, Beef Tallow (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Natural Flavor, Dried Egg Product, Canola Oil, Corn Oil, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Taurine, Vitamin and Mineral Supplements (Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Vitamin E Supplement, L-Ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (source of Ascorbic Acid), Copper Sulfate, Vitamin A Supplement, Manganese Sulfate, Niacin, D Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin, Calcium Iodate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamin Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Sodium Selenite, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement).
Guaranteed Analysis:
  • Mini Chunk: Crude Protein (min) 22.0%, Crude Fat (min) 12.0%, Crude Fiber (max) 4.0%, Moisture (max) 10.0%, Calcium (min) 1.2%, Phosphorus (min) 1.1%, Zinc (min) 175mg/kg, Selenium (min) 0.15mg/kg, Vitamin A (min) 15,000 IU/kg, Vitamin E (min) 200 IU/kg, Omega-6 Fatty Acids (min) 2.0%*, Omega-3 Fatty Acids (min) .30%*, Vitamin C (min) 20 mg/kg*.
  • Chunk: Crude Protein (min) 26.0%, Crude Fat (min) 14.0%, Crude Fiber (max) 4.0%, Moisture (max) 10.0%, Calcium (min) 1.1%, Phosphorus (min) 1.0%, Zinc (min) 175mg/kg, Selenium (min) 0.15mg/kg, Vitamin A (min) 15,000 IU/kg, Vitamin E (min) 225 IU/kg, Omega-6 Fatty Acids (min) 3.0%*, Omega-3 Fatty Acids (min) 0.25%*, Vitamin C (min) 20 mg/kg*.
* Not recognized as an essential nutrient by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profile.
Calorie Content:
  • Mini Chunk: 3,565 kcal/kg metabolizable energy (calculated)
  • Chunk: 3,565 kcal/kg metabolizable energy (calculated)

feranaja 05-05-10 07:33 PM

Re: Pet food
Sorry RB, this is seriously bad. :(
Wheat, beef tallow and corn oil are all serious no-nos on a label.

Especially with Lovey's condition, yikes.
Did you get a chance to look through TT's suggestions? I thought she made some very good ones.

you might look at Fromm, Eagle Pack, some of the Nutro line is reasonable -

Ravenbear 05-05-10 07:42 PM

Re: Pet food
Ok, looking now.. sorry to be pestring you about his.. I just want to get what best for them and I do not want Lovey to get worse..

feranaja 05-05-10 07:52 PM

Re: Pet food
No, it's cool. the Links page on my site BADLY needs updating. Lovey should have ideally a glutenfree food with moderate fats and extra Omega 3 (EPA and DHA) from fish oils. She can benefit from coconut oil too, extra Vitamin E and zinc, and probiotics. But find the food, first.

Because dogs with Shar Pei fever are at high risk for developing amyloidosis, which affects (among other things) the kidney, I keep protein moderate and sodium low, although there is no need to restrict protein too much. Preventively I think conservative nutrient levels, anti inflammatory foods and supplements such as fish oil, and immunomodulatories like probiotics and possibly astragalus, would be my first line of defense.

Ravenbear 05-05-10 07:55 PM

Re: Pet food
Ok cool, I am writing this all down..
She seems to have here outbreaks during the change of seasons every time.. Any idea why?

feranaja 05-05-10 07:57 PM

Re: Pet food
All seasons or just spring and fall? Spring and fall would suggest allergy, if it's all four, then pressure changes and just general sensitivity.

Ravenbear 05-05-10 08:03 PM

Re: Pet food
All seasons.. Mrs. Bear suggested the pressure changes..

feranaja 05-07-10 04:53 PM

Re: Pet food
Did you find anything yet? Here's a little bit on what to look for, from one of my seminars. not comprehensive, because seminars I do are on home feeding, usually. but maybe a help?

Commercial Diets

To begin with, I am going to assume that most people here are well aware of the myriad problems with old style commercial dog foods, and are either feeding home made food or using premium brands, or some combination of both. For anyone not familiar with the many problems related to old style dog foods, I can do no better than refer you to Ann Martin's seminal expose of the dog food industry - Food Pets Die For - and also to the link below, which features a lengthy article newcomers to natural feeding will find both instructive and very disturbing.

In response to books like Ms. Martin's, and others such as Martin Goldstein's Nature of Animal Healing, growing public awareness and consumer pressure has resulted in a wide array of premium foods now available in specialty stores like the one kindly sponsoring this seminar. And while some holistically oriented dog lovers insist that NO commercial food is ever a good idea, I would have to disagree for many reasons. To start with - not everyone has the time, energy, money of other means to feed a properly formulated home prepared diet. Not many have the know- how and many are also intimidated by the notion they may "do something wrong" and harm their dog. So one great advantage of the new foods are that they are made from much higher quality ingredients than was common in past (and still used by the giant companies) and of course, the nutritional balancing has already been done for you. Some of the new foods are truly excellent and I personally have seen dozens of cases where a dog's health improved dramatically simply after switching from a lower quality product to a better one - no supplements, no home made food, just a move from a corn and by-product based food with dubious ingredients (often hugely overpriced) to one based on human grade meats, appropriate fats and whole grains and healthier, less toxic ingredients.

That said, there are still widely differing philosophies within the premium manufacturers and this is reflected in everything from the choice of foods, the amounts of nutrients, the length of the ingredient list and many other characteristics. So choosing a dry or canned food from within the new premiums can still be a bit daunting. I will outline some key ideas to bear in mind as you consider foods.

For starters,and for anyone new to natural feeding, I have included a separate sheet listing ingredients you don't want to see on a label. Now since the premium brands won't be using these ingredients, who do you decide which one will work best for your individual dog?

Here is how I start looking at a food, and I would encourage you to try these methods too.

1. Check through the list for any of the really undesirables - corn gluten meal, brewer's rice, BHA/BHT, anything unidentified eg "animal fat" or "meat". The presence of one or more of these should rule that food right out, right away.

2. Evaluate the main ingredients, which are anything listed before the first fat source (not the first five, as is commonly thought). You need to evaluate the quality of these ingredients and this can take some time to learn how this works. Briefly put, you want to look for;

- whole meat sources, specifically identified - lamb, duck, salmon, turkey, not by products
or digest, or generic things like "poultry"
- specifically identified meat meal is fine, it simply means that the meat has had water removed
and does not speak to meat quality per se, only weight of this ingredient - foods that list for
example, "lamb meal" as a first ingredient may
actually contain more meat protein than one that simply says "lamb" since meal is more
concentrated with water removed
- specifically named fats and oil sources - chicken fat, sunflower oil as opposed to "animal fat" or
"vegetable oil"
- an Omega 6:3 ratio of anywhere from 7:1 to 5:1 - but you can always add more fish oils if the ratio
is the only thing you don't like about a food
- carbohydrates are not all evil as some suspect, but the type, amount and quality will all be
important considerations in choosing a food. Look for lower or non gluten grains like rice and
seeds such as quinoa and amaranth, also white and sweet potato as healthier alternatives to
wheat, oats, barley and sorghum. You want whole unprocessed grain as much as possible since
processing removes a lot of nutrient value. Grain should not be a main protein source as amino
acids from grain are of a much lower biological value for the carnivore..and this will mean that the
amount of crude protein stated on the label may well be much lower in the dog's system, resulting
in less than optimal nutrition.
-appropriate nutrient content for your individual dog - is your dog arthritic? Best to avoid white
potato. Do you have a Giant breed puppy? There are excellent new foods that are formulated with
what we currently know about minerals, fats and energy for these unique dogs. And so on.

- Avoid corn, corn gluten, middlings, or any type thereof or wheat, soy or sorghum as main
ingredient - ditto for soy

These are a few important guidelines, to help you choose a diet or several types to use as staple foods, not intended to be comprehensive here, but a list of basic ideas.

3. Next -watch your dog's reaction! This is common sense, but monitoring the subjective signs of a food's impact on your individual is crucial. Your dog should enjoy the food, stools should be normal in size and frequency and there should be no signs of gastric upset such as flatulence or gurgling. Of course it's important to introduce new foods slowly but after a few weeks you should see postive changes in your dog when shifting from a medium or poor quality food to a truly healthy premium. Since there are pros and cons with every food out there, if you aren't dealing with specific issues (sensitive dogs for example, or the increased protein needs of a senior, or allergy etc) then rotating can be a way to minimize the things you might not view as ideal in the diet and maximize nutreint sources.

4. Monitor objective signs by having your vet thoroughly examine your dog. Although good coat,
muscle tone, energy etc are all valuable indicators of health, a dog can look good on the outside
and be in the early stages of a problem internally. We see this a lot with dogs switched from poor
quality diet to a home made unbalanced one; initially they do look much better, but down the road
the usual problems appear; poor coat due to fatty acid imbalance, colitis/IBD, renal issues from
high phosphorus, gastric problems with dogs who don't digest bone well. The right answer for any
dog always starts with balanced formulas and wholesome foods, geared to his particular needs.

In conclusion, we can utilize these guidelines to assess whether a given food has fresh quality ingredients - how much processing it's been subjected to, how high the biological value of the protein is and whether there are undesirable fillers, preservatives and flavourings present. When it comes to issues like actual amount of protein, fiber and so on, this is where we need to think about the individual dog - and keep on conducting our own feeding trials. Seniors generally require more protein, healthy ones with good kidney function and normal liver values - but many senior foods are actually using lowered amounts of protein.Which is best for your dog? Then there is the issue of rotating brands - a practise I heartily endorse as long as your dog isn't the type who has great difficult adjusting to new products, in which case the dietary strategy should be to find a food that works and add fresh or canned foods in for variety and added nutrition.

The main advantage of a commerical food over a home made diet is that the number crunching has all been done for you; these diets have been formulated to ensure nutritional adequacy.The new foods, while still problematic in some ways as are all processed foods, are generally highly palatable, of much higher quality than the "old guard" and offer as close to optimal nutrition as you can achieve without going to home made. And home made diets that are not properly balanced can be a real disaster. you can also use a premium food half the time or part of the time and home cook or do raw when time allows.

This talk has really just scratched the surface in looking at commercial diet, it's beyond the scope of this day to go over every ingredient in detail and evaluate the pros and cons. Some excellent foods may not work for your dog and it can take a while to figure out what does. I hope to hold more intensive seminars throughout the year and do exactly this. Meantime, I hope the resources and information here are of some use.

feranaja 05-07-10 07:52 PM

Re: Pet food

Originally Posted by TeamTwig (Post 146429)
Just my opinion.... but anything made by Nutro scares the crap out of me.... way too much recall list activity from that company for me to trust them.
I've learned, that if the ingredient panel looks good... keep digging. I email companies all the time, asking about where their ingredients are sourced, where their products are made and what certifications their plants have, how their fish meal products are preserved, info about their cooking times and temps (to assess acrylamide risk), etc. But then again... I'm insane. :redface:

While I totally agree with you TT, I have to say this - everyone isn't us. :smash: Seriously - we have to meet people where they are. My experience, which is only that, suggests that health and longevity depends on multiple factors, and food is one biggie - but only one. Myown dog - homefed, conservatively vaxxed, holistically reared RR (and love of my life) died 2 weeks after his 8 th bday, from hemangiosarcoma. The leading oncologist in the filed told me"It wouldnt have mattered what you fed, this cancer is rampant in all purebreds" (and I believe him - to some extent). I would much rather see newcomers make *some*changes in all quadrants - food, training (stress) environmental toxins and vet care, then go to massive changes in one arena only. Does that make sense to you?

Where you and I are, Twiglet, I will say I DO believe diet can make the crucial difference. I truly do. But where the average person is, thinking IAMS is good diet? I move slowly. One step at a time. those guys are probably also vaxxing yearly, you know? I want to make it accessible.
You aren't crazy, you're just advanced. And thats not true for everyone, and I've seen many people scared by us.
No, seriously.

feranaja 05-07-10 08:13 PM

Re: Pet food
Good thoughts here - I think that Nutro vs Purina One, ok - for me thats a step in the right direction. That's how I work it, anyway. There really isn't a kibble I think is ok, after all this time, but still - I use it, as I have to.
I also eat pizza and drink coffee and far too much beer, lol, but according to my Drs I am doing allright.

And sweetie, with regard to your Rottie? somethings are out of our hands. If my years in this world have taught me one thing, it's that. No dog on four paws was loved and cared for more than my Luke, and this horrific cancer got him. Humbling and enlightening. We do our best, and that's all we can do.
He was blessed to have you, I tell myself that about the Lukester all the time.

JMO, as always.

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